Designing the Recycler
The concept for the recycler was not something that I came up with, but rather a design that I found online. I could not find one that suited my needs, so I decided to make my own. The recycler consists of four main elements: a cutter, a hot end, a reel, and a controller. The cutter is used to cut the PET bottle into an even width, continuous strip. The hot end is used to partially melt the strip and convert it into the size and shape for filament. The reel pulls the filament through the system and stores it for printing. Lastly, the controller on the front controls the hot end temperature and the reeler motor.
3D Modeling and Printing
I started out by 3D modeling the design in Fusion 360. I designed all of the 3D principal components and modeled some of the main B out elements to get the general shape and design right. I then proceeded to a lot of 3D printing. I printed the components in PLA plastic, which is a biodegradable material. I also used a few other materials such as PETG and ABS for some of the components.
Assembling the Recycler
Once all the components were printed, I began to assemble the recycler. I started by attaching the cutter to the frame. I then attached the hot end and the reel. I also added a few other components such as the controller and the power supply. I then connected all the components together and tested the recycler.
Testing the Recycler
Once the recycler was assembled, I tested it by feeding a PET bottle into the cutter. The cutter cut the bottle into an even width, continuous strip. The strip then went through the hot end and was partially melted and converted into the size and shape for filament. The reel then pulled the filament through the system and stored it for printing. The recycler worked perfectly and I was able to turn a few old PET bottles into a new case for my Raspberry Pi.
This will act as a heat sink to help dissipate the heat from the bearings when theyre cutting the filament.
3D Printed Parts
The PET Recycler requires 3D printed parts to assemble. To ensure the parts are strong and durable, they are printed in PETG. A few adjustments and redesigns were needed to the parts until the desired result was achieved.
Assembling the Recycler
The bottle side of the recycler requires two main 3D printed parts: the base which holds the cutter and the bottle support, and the guide which keeps the strip in the same orientation through the bearings when feeding into the hot end. To join the two pieces, M3 brass inserts are melted into place using a soldering iron before they are screwed into place.
Cutting Mechanism
The cutter uses two 608 ball bearings to cut the filament. These are the same size bearings used for skateboard wheels and fidget spinners, making them easy and inexpensive to obtain. To sharpen the face of each bearing, they are run through a bench grinder to ensure they remain square. M8 studs are epoxied into the base to mount the bearings on, and an 8mm shaft is epoxied into the reel holder for use later. A metal strip is added underneath the bearings to act as a heat sink and help dissipate the heat generated when the bearings are cutting the filament.
Final Touches
The final touches include adding a hot end, a stepper motor, and a controller board. The hot end is connected to the stepper motor and the controller board, and the stepper motor is connected to the cutter. The controller board is then connected to the power supply and the filament reel holder. Once all the components are connected, the recycler is ready to use.
We need to make sure that the nozzle is insulated from the rest of the recycler and that the heat is dissipated away from the other parts.
3D Printed Pi Case
The 3D printed Pi case is an essential part of the PET bottle recycler. It provides a secure and stable base for the cutter and hot end, as well as providing insulation from the heat generated by the hot end. The design of the case is simple yet effective, with a base plate that is printed with two studs to hold the bearings for the cutter, and a guard that is printed with four M3 button head screws. The base plate also has a M8 stud for the P bottle stand.
Insulating the Hot End
The hot end is the most important part of the recycler as it is responsible for melting the PET bottles into filament. To ensure that the hot end is insulated from the rest of the recycler, a heat shield is printed and placed between the hot end and the base plate. This heat shield is designed to dissipate the heat away from the other parts of the recycler, while also providing a secure mount for the hot end.
Mounting the Cutter and Hot End
The cutter and hot end are mounted onto the base plate using two bearings and a nut. The first bearing is placed on the base plate with its flattened or ground face up, and a small washer is used to prevent it from rubbing against the base plate. A nut is then used to hold the bearing in place. The second bearing is then placed on the top of the first bearing, with its ground face down. This must be done carefully to ensure that the two bearings are in contact with each other. The nut is then used to hold the second bearing in place. The guard is then mounted onto the front of the base plate with four M3 button head screws. Finally, an M8 stud is added to the base plate for the P bottle stand.
The Reeler
The Reeler is the most complicated part of the recycler and is driven by a stepper motor to pull the filament through the cutter and the hot end. To make the Reeler, I changed up the design from the ones I’ve seen online on most other machines. The Reeler is fixed on both sides and requires the filament to be pulled off the Reel once it’s done. To make the process easier, I made the Reeler removable, which allows for easy removal of the completed filament.
Threaded Brass Inserts
To finish off the Reeler, I melted some M2.5 threaded brass inserts into one half of the Reeler for the opposite end to screw into. This is split to make it easier to 3D print without supports. Additionally, I added some inserts to the Reeler holder for the small catches that hold the Reeler in place when it’s running. These parts were then screwed together with some M2.5 screws.
Bearing Inserts
To finish off the Reeler, I pressed two 608 size B bearings into the Reeler stand. This helps to keep the Reeler in place and ensures that it runs smoothly.
Heat Brake
To prevent the heat from reaching the 3D printed plastic holder, I used a heat brake on the current hot end assembly. This meant that the strip would fit into it, allowing for a more efficient and effective recycling process.
Designing the 3D Printed Pi Case
The next step was to design the 3D printed Pi case. I wanted it to be able to hold the controller board, the motor, and the reel. I also wanted it to be made from recycled PET bottles, so I designed a case that would be able to hold the components and be made from PET bottles. The case consists of two parts, the base and the top. The base is made from four PET bottles, with the bottoms cut off and the tops cut off. The top is made from two PET bottles, with the bottoms cut off and the tops cut off. The two parts are then connected using four M3 screws. The motor is mounted on the underside of the base, and the reel is mounted on the top. The controller board is mounted on the top of the case.
Assembling the DIY Bottle Recycler
Once the 3D printed Pi case was designed, it was time to assemble the DIY bottle recycler. The first step was to attach the motor to the base. This was done by using four M3 button head screws to secure the motor to the base. The next step was to attach the reel to the top of the case. This was done by pushing the reel shaft through the base, with a spacer between it and the bearing, then adding another spacer on the opposite side. A pulley was then added to finish it off, and a grab screw was used to hold it in place. A second pulley was added to the motor shaft, and a belt was used to connect the two. The belt was tensioned using the relative movement between the reel base and the motor holder, pulling them further apart to put more tension on the belt.
Adding the Controller
The last step was to add the controller. The controller was designed as a shield for an Arduino Uno, but I wanted to make it more compact, so I designed a new PCB that swapped the Uno out for a pro mini, and I brought the components a little closer together. The PCB was then made up for me in the same color scheme. The controller was then mounted on the top of the case, and the DIY bottle recycler was ready to be used.
3D Printed Pi Case
In order to create a 3D printed Pi case, I used PET bottles to construct the frame. PET bottles are a great material to use for this project as they are lightweight, durable, and easy to work with. I started by cutting the bottles into strips and then using a hot glue gun to join them together. Once the frame was complete, I used a 3D printer to create the enclosure for the Pi. I used a combination of PLA and ABS filament to ensure the enclosure was strong and durable.
DIY Bottle Recycler
To make the project even more sustainable, I decided to build a DIY bottle recycler. This recycler was designed to turn PET bottles into 3D printing filament. The recycler consists of a motor, a gearbox, and a spool holder. The motor is used to spin the gearbox, which in turn spins the spool holder. The spool holder is used to hold the PET bottles while they are being cut into strips. The strips are then fed into the 3D printer, where they are melted and extruded into filament.
Programming and Setting Up Stepper Motor Drivers
Before I could put the 3D printed Pi case into use, I needed to program it and set up the stepper motor drivers. To upload the code to the pro menu, I used a USB programmer. After plugging the programmer into the pro menu and then into a computer, I was able to upload the code to it. To set the current limit, I used a multimeter to measure the reference voltage and then adjusted the limit using a screwdriver to suit the rated current of the motor.
Troubleshooting
When running the stepper motor, I encountered an issue where it sounded like it was intermittently skipping steps or stopping. To troubleshoot this issue, I put the pocket Pro’s oscilloscope on the output and found that the Arduino was stopping pulsing the motor for brief periods of time. This was due to the Arduino taking longer to update the display than the period of time between the pulses. To fix this issue, I adjusted the code to ensure the display was updated more quickly.
Making the Display Loop Faster
In order to ensure a consistent pulling force, it was necessary to make the display loop faster. This required modifying the code so that the display would no longer update during operation. While this does limit the feedback on the display, it does not affect the overall design or functionality. Further investigation is needed to determine if the display, or at least portions of it, can be updated more quickly in the future.
Installing the Board
M3 brass inserts were added to the bottom of the enclosure in order to screw the PCB into place. Nylon standoffs were also used to secure the front cover and hold the PCB in place. The OLED display was then glued to the inside of the cover with hot glue and connected to the PCB with a short ribbon cable. Elements and a thermistor were screwed into the terminals, the stepper motor was plugged in, and the enclosure was closed with M3 button head screws. The 3D printed knob was pushed onto the rotary push button and mounted onto the base. The second set of legs was installed to close off the end of the extrusions.
The Hot End
The hot end of the 3D printer was then assembled, with the nozzle being screwed into the heatsink and the thermistor being connected to the heater block. The heater block was then connected to the power supply and the fan was connected to the fan port. The nozzle was then calibrated and the temperature set to the desired level. The filament was then loaded into the extruder and the printer was ready for use.
Preparing the Heat Block and Nozzle
In order to ensure that the PET bottle filament can be pulled through the hot end, the hot end holder must be redesigned so that the strip passes through the holder and directly into the heat block. To begin assembly, the heat block must be prepared with a 0.4 mm nozzle. This can be done by drilling out the nozzle to the desired filament diameter of 1.75 mm, using a 1116 in drill bit. It is important to note that the filament expands slightly after it leaves the hot end, so the drill bit should be slightly smaller than 1.6 mm.
Mounting the Heat Block
Once the nozzle is prepared, the heat block can be mounted onto the holder. To do this, m3x 40 mm buttoned screws should be used, and these should pass through the heat block and be secured with nuts. Additionally, plywood plates should be used as a heat brake, to prevent the screws from melting. Finally, the terminals should be reattached and the device is ready to be tested.
Testing the Device
To test the device, PET bottles should be cut into strips and fed into the hot end. The strip should be heated right from the time it enters, so that it is soft enough to be rolled over in the hot end and form a cylinder. The filament should then be pulled through the nozzle and out of the device. If the filament is of the correct diameter and the device is working correctly, the PET bottle filament should be ready to use.
Preparation of Bottle
The first step in transforming PET bottles into a 3D printed Pi case is to prepare the bottle for the process. This involves removing the label and any residue, as well as any date markings. Acetone is effective for this purpose, and it is important to ensure that the bottle is smooth, as the cutter works best on a smooth surface. If the bottle is rippled, it can be smoothed out by applying heat and a few drops of water inside the bottle to pressurize it.
Cutting the Bottle
The next step is to cut off the end of the bottle and feed it into the cutter. This can be done with a pair of needle nose pliers. Once the end of the bottle is fed into the cutter, the motor speed and target hot end temperature must be selected. It is recommended to use a motor speed of 22 to 25 and a target hot end temperature of 215 to 220. The motor can then be turned on or off with the last menu item.
Feeding the Filament
Once the bottle has been cut, the filament must be fed through the hot end, which should be preheated to 220 degrees Celsius. The filament can then be fed onto the reel, which has a small hole on one of the spokes. The end of the filament should be fed through the hole and tied off. The reel motor can then be turned on to start pulling the filament through, and the bottle will be transformed into filament. To reduce the load on the motor, the bottle cutting can be done beforehand and the strip fed through to the hot end.
Recycling PET Bottles Into 3D Printed Pi Case
Recycling PET bottles into 3D printed Pi cases is a great way to reduce waste and create something useful out of something that would otherwise end up in the landfill. The process starts by converting the bottles into filament, which can then be used in a 3D printer. To do this, the bottles are cut into small pieces and then melted down into a liquid form. The liquid is then extruded through a die to create a hollow filament. This filament is then transferred to a 3D printer and used to print a variety of objects.
Printing Calibration Cube and Ben
When printing with the PET filament, it is important to adjust the settings on the 3D printer to get the best results. The flow rate should be increased to about 135, and the bed temperature should be set to 70 and the hot end temperature to 260. After making these adjustments, a calibration cube and Ben can be printed to see how well the filament works. The calibration cube came out looking good, while the Ben showed some signs of stringing and underextrusion in places.
Printing a Case for Raspberry Pi
Once the settings have been adjusted, a case for a Raspberry Pi can be printed. This came out looking great, but it highlights one of the drawbacks of using PET filament. As the filament is hollow, it is not as consistent as factory-produced filament and it gets used up much faster. To print a standard Pi case with no supports, 25 meters of filament is needed, which is a lot more than is needed for solid 1.75 mm filament.
3D Printed Pi Case – DIY Bottle Recycler
The 3D printed Pi case is a great way to recycle PET bottles and turn them into something useful. This DIY project is a great way to reduce waste and create something unique. The project requires a 3D printer, a PET bottle cutter, and some basic tools. The end result is a 3D printed case with side panels made from recycled PET bottles.
Printing the Case Body
The first step in the project is to print the case body. This requires a 3D printer and a roll of filament. The case body is designed to be printed in five parts, so it is necessary to swap out the filament five times. If the printer has a filament run out sensor, this process is manageable. The case body should come out with minimal stringing and some underextruded areas.
Making the Side Panels
The side panels of the case are made from recycled PET bottles. A PET bottle cutter is used to cut the bottles into strips. These strips are then inserted into the 3D printed case body. For a unique look, colored Mountain Dew bottles can be used for the side panels.
Finishing Touches
The completed case looks great in the dark, as the RGB fan illuminates the body. There are a few improvements that can be made to the project, such as getting the display temperature to be updated while the motor is running, or designing a spool mount for pre-cut bottle strips.
Sharing the Design
The design for the 3D printed Pi case is available on the creator’s blog. The code is also available on GitHub, allowing others to build their own and make improvements.
The 3D printed Pi case is an essential part of the PET bottle recycler. It provides a secure and stable base for the cutter and hot end, as well as providing insulation from the heat generated by the hot end. The design of the case is simple yet effective, with a base plate that is printed with two studs to hold the bearings for the cutter, and a guard that is printed with four M3 button head screws. The hot end is mounted onto the base plate using two bearings and a nut, and a heat shield is printed and placed between the hot end and the base plate to ensure that the hot end is insulated from the rest of the recycler. Finally, an M8 stud is added to the base plate for the P bottle stand.
The recycler was designed to turn PET bottles into a 3D printed Pi case. To do this, I used a Reeler driven by a stepper motor to pull the filament through the cutter and the hot end. Additionally, I used a heat brake on the current hot end assembly to prevent the heat from reaching the 3D printed plastic holder. Finally, I inserted threaded brass inserts and bearings into the Reeler stand to ensure that it runs smoothly.
The DIY bottle recycler is a great way to recycle PET bottles and turn them into something useful. The recycler is easy to assemble and can be used to turn PET bottles into 3D printed Pi cases. The recycler is a great way to reduce waste and help the environment.
I was able to turn PET bottles into a 3D printed Pi case by constructing a frame from the bottles and then using a 3D printer to create the enclosure. I also built a DIY bottle recycler to turn the PET bottles into 3D printing filament. Finally, I programmed the Pi and set up the stepper motor drivers before troubleshooting an issue with the motor.
By recycling PET bottles and turning them into filament, it is possible to create a 3D printed Pi case. This can be done by redesigning the hot end holder, preparing the heat block and nozzle, mounting the heat block, and testing the device. With the correct steps taken, PET bottle filament can be created and used for 3D printing projects.
Recycling PET bottles into 3D printed Pi cases is a great way to reduce waste and create something useful out of something that would otherwise end up in the landfill. The process starts by converting the bottles into filament, which can then be used in a 3D printer. After making the necessary adjustments, a calibration cube and Ben can be printed to see how well the filament works. Finally, a case for a Raspberry Pi can be printed, although it is important to note that PET filament is not as consistent as factory-produced filament and it gets used up much faster.
